A new and promising direction in aesthetic medicine is occupied by products based on oligopeptides.
Peptide is a sequence of several amino acids. Distinguish between short-chain - 2-3 amino acids, long-chain - more than 10 amino acids. As it turned out, peptides are information molecules that allow cells to exchange information.
Peptides are short sections of proteins in our body. These are short chains of several amino acids. They mimic the action of complex molecules by transmitting signals to the cells and organs of the body. The number of new peptides is constantly growing.
Application of peptides in dermatology
Signal peptides are markers of tissue damage. They activate the repair processes in the skin, cell division and differentiation. They are widely used to correct fine wrinkles, improve skin elasticity. Palmitoylpentapeptide-3 stimulates the synthesis of collagen type I, III and the proliferation of fibroblasts and the synthesis of fibronectin (Sederma, Le Perrayen Yvelines, France). Palmitoyloligopeptide - an elastin polypeptide that stimulates fibroblast growth and angiogenesis. Replikines ™ and Combikines ™ are complex peptides that induce a broader reparative response with a more complex action. Palmitoylhexapeptide-14 is a synthetic analogue of innate immunity peptide that stimulates cell migration, collagen synthesis, fibroblast proliferation and restoration of the extracellular matrix.
Carrier peptides are essential for the transfer and stabilization of important metals in tissues for wound healing and enzymatic reactions. They stimulate collagen synthesis, synthesis of metalloproteinase inhibitors, etc. The most famous representative of this group of peptides is the glycine-histidyl-lysine tripepidide (Cooper-peptide) is used as a copper carrier - it improves skin elasticity and texture, reduces the severity of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
Suppression of nerve impulse conduction
Argireline Hexapeptide ®(Lipotec, Barcelona, Spain), when applied topically with 10% cream, reduces wrinkles by 30% in 30 days, according to research. Great hopes were pinned on this peptide as an alternative to botulinum toxins. In vitro, Argireline blocks neuromuscular transmission at micromolar concentrations, suggesting that when applied topically, that small amount would be enough to block the muscles. The above clinical study has convincingly proven this. But, as it turned out, Argireline does not penetrate into the skin and, moreover, into the hypodermis. The wrinkle-smoothing effect is due to the ability to retain moisture on the surface of the skin. Syn-ake ®(Pentapharm, Basel, Switzerland) is a synthetic analogue that mimics the action of rattlesnake venom. It is a reversible antagonist of muscle acetylcholine receptors.
Treatment of age spots
The problem of skin photoaging is still attracting the attention of scientists. Today there are already such effective techniques, photorejuvenation for correcting such signs of skin photoaging. Also, the search is underway for effective remedies for local treatment of one of the main signs of photoaging - hyperpigmentation.
A group of scientists at Stanford University conducted a study of a number of peptides responsible for tissue repair. The purpose of the screening study was to isolate the most powerful peptides that would stimulate collagen synthesis and could be further used as anti-aging agents. Surprisingly, the authors found that some peptides are capable of inhibiting the synthesis of melanin (the pigment that gives skin color). This became the topic of the second study of the activity of a group of peptides in inhibiting melanogenesis.
Of the five peptides included in the screening, 2 highly effective oligopeptides were isolated, the most powerful effect was found in Decapeptide-12. It inhibits melanin synthesis 17 times stronger than hydroquinone. But unlike hydroquinone, Decapeptide-12 has no toxic effect on skin cells.
Laser technologies for the treatment of age spots
Among the popular methods of treating hyperpigmentation, one can single out photorejuvenation, which allows you to remove superficial forms of pigmentation.
Read in detail in the section Treating age spots.